JOURNAL
Pitti Uomo 110: Trends
Words & photography: Lee Osborne @sartorialee
As temperatures soared past 35°C during Pitti Uomo 110 in Florence, the sweltering conditions became a fitting backdrop to a menswear season defined by lightness, practicality and effortless sophistication. The extreme heat wasn't simply something attendees had to endure; it reinforced the industry's growing focus on breathable fabrics, relaxed silhouettes and wardrobes designed for real life in an increasingly warmer climate.
The streets surrounding the Fortezza da Basso once again became as influential as the trade show itself, with editors, buyers and creatives embracing a distinctly softer approach to dressing. The structured, formal tailoring that has dominated previous seasons has evolved into something far more relaxed: soft-shouldered jackets, more fluid pleated trousers and unstructured double-breasted blazers created a silhouette that felt refined without appearing rigid. Suits were rarely worn conventionally; instead, jackets were layered over knitted polos or simple T-shirts, reflecting a shift towards versatility and ease.
Natural fibres took centre stage throughout the collections. Linen remained the hero fabric, alongside linen-cotton blends, lightweight tropical wools, silk-linen mixes and crisp poplins. Brands also showcased innovative performance textiles that combined technical functionality with luxurious handle, acknowledging the modern consumer's expectation that clothing should perform as well as it looks. The soaring temperatures made these fabric choices feel essential.
Colour palettes echoed the relaxed mood. Head-to-toe looks in ivory, stone, oyster and soft cream were among the strongest statements across both the famous Pitti square and the city's street style. Earthy neutral tones like tobacco, olive, mushroom and warm caramel added depth, while navy quietly replaced black as the preferred darker option for tailoring and outerwear. Rather than relying on bold seasonal colour, designers focused on tonal dressing and subtle layering to create visual interest.
Colour palettes echoed the relaxed mood. Head-to-toe looks in ivory, stone, oyster and soft cream were among the strongest statements across both the famous Pitti square and the city's street style. Earthy neutral tones like tobacco, olive, mushroom and warm caramel added depth, while navy quietly replaced black as the preferred darker option for tailoring and outerwear. Rather than relying on bold seasonal colour, designers focused on tonal dressing and subtle layering to create visual interest.
Silhouettes continued their gradual move away from slim fits. Fuller-cut trousers, relaxed chinos and softly draped drawstring styles reinforced a preference for comfort, while overshirts and lightweight field jackets emerged as versatile alternatives to traditional tailoring. Knitwear also continued its evolution as a year-round category, with fine-gauge crew necks, open-weave polos and textured crochet knits providing breathable layering options suitable for warmer months.
Footwear reflected the same understated elegance. Suede loafers, Grecian-style leather sandals, Belgian shoes and minimalist trainers dominated, favouring timeless style over overt fashion statements. Accessories followed suit, with woven leather belts, raffia details and soft leather tote bags complementing the season's relaxed aesthetic.
Perhaps most notable was the absence of excess. The prevailing mood was one of quiet confidence rather than attention-seeking. Luxury was expressed through craftsmanship, fabric quality and impeccable fit instead of logos or decorative embellishment. This sense of restraint mirrors a broader shift within menswear, where investment pieces and timeless wardrobe staples continue to outweigh short-lived trends.
Perhaps most notable was the absence of excess. The prevailing mood was one of quiet confidence rather than attention-seeking. Luxury was expressed through craftsmanship, fabric quality and impeccable fit instead of logos or decorative embellishment. This sense of restraint mirrors a broader shift within menswear, where investment pieces and timeless wardrobe staples continue to outweigh short-lived trends.
Street style reinforced these themes, with attendees effortlessly combining tailoring and sportswear, often punctuated by baseball caps, neck scarves and understated accessories. The overall impression was polished yet approachable: a wardrobe designed to transition seamlessly between work, travel and leisure.
Pitti Uomo 110 ultimately demonstrated that menswear is entering a new phase of considered dressing, as climate, lifestyle and consumer priorities continue to evolve.
Pitti Uomo 110 ultimately demonstrated that menswear is entering a new phase of considered dressing, as climate, lifestyle and consumer priorities continue to evolve.
