Lee Osborne wanders the back streets of Florence talking shop with the immaculately attired vintage-loving Glaswegian and familiar face of Pitti
LO: Tell us a little bit about yourself. Your background and how you got into menswear…because you don't work in menswear, is that right?
SA: First of all, it's a pleasure to partake in this. I've always spent time reading and learning about menswear through blogs and posts, so it's great to be able to share my own story. My name's Shaban Ali, I'm 27, and my hometown is Glasgow up in Scotland. To be honest, this journey was nothing I ever really planned or thought I'd be involved in when I was growing up, it all sort of just happened spontaneously, being open-minded and ever curious I let it evolve. It began with me dropping out of a computing course at University, having realised it wasn't what I really wanted to do. I've always been creative, my favourite things to do were always in the realms of art, drawing, painting and studying art history. I just didn't pursue it academically thinking it was a dead-end career choice. I've always loved colours, shapes and forms and became obsessed with the works of the Renaissance and Dutch artists of the past. At the same time, I started watching movies with all the free time I had, and I wanted to immerse myself in the classics and see what all the fuss was about. Starting with The Godfather, then enjoying Casino, Goodfellas, Scarface…I began to realise I was really enjoying the visual appeal of the clothes: an explosion of colours, checks, fabrics and textures galore. I thought everyone looked beautifully dressed, along with the cool vintage cars, jazz music and fancy clubs, it was an intoxicating allure. Why did men stop dressing like this? What happened? Thus began the journey, a fascination with the gangster genre and classic menswear history being spoken on the screen. When I become fixated on something I do what most people tend to do and go down all the rabbit holes. I started reading blogs from Gentleman's Gazette at the time, watching YouTube videos about how to dress well and finally embraced Instagram where I learnt a great deal through menswear influencers. It was a slow learning curve over the years, where I started to incorporate an improved dress-sense and became more style-aware. My other passion was speciality coffee which is actually the industry I work in now, so I always look forward to a day off to dress up and be myself. I think my early love for the expression of art manifested itself in my clothes - it's still about colour combinations, shapes and patterns.
SA: First of all, it's a pleasure to partake in this. I've always spent time reading and learning about menswear through blogs and posts, so it's great to be able to share my own story. My name's Shaban Ali, I'm 27, and my hometown is Glasgow up in Scotland. To be honest, this journey was nothing I ever really planned or thought I'd be involved in when I was growing up, it all sort of just happened spontaneously, being open-minded and ever curious I let it evolve. It began with me dropping out of a computing course at University, having realised it wasn't what I really wanted to do. I've always been creative, my favourite things to do were always in the realms of art, drawing, painting and studying art history. I just didn't pursue it academically thinking it was a dead-end career choice. I've always loved colours, shapes and forms and became obsessed with the works of the Renaissance and Dutch artists of the past. At the same time, I started watching movies with all the free time I had, and I wanted to immerse myself in the classics and see what all the fuss was about. Starting with The Godfather, then enjoying Casino, Goodfellas, Scarface…I began to realise I was really enjoying the visual appeal of the clothes: an explosion of colours, checks, fabrics and textures galore. I thought everyone looked beautifully dressed, along with the cool vintage cars, jazz music and fancy clubs, it was an intoxicating allure. Why did men stop dressing like this? What happened? Thus began the journey, a fascination with the gangster genre and classic menswear history being spoken on the screen. When I become fixated on something I do what most people tend to do and go down all the rabbit holes. I started reading blogs from Gentleman's Gazette at the time, watching YouTube videos about how to dress well and finally embraced Instagram where I learnt a great deal through menswear influencers. It was a slow learning curve over the years, where I started to incorporate an improved dress-sense and became more style-aware. My other passion was speciality coffee which is actually the industry I work in now, so I always look forward to a day off to dress up and be myself. I think my early love for the expression of art manifested itself in my clothes - it's still about colour combinations, shapes and patterns.
LO: How did you first discover Michele & Shin, your tailor, based in Ginza, Tokyo? And what particularly drew you to their style?
SA: When I got into the groove of menswear circles on social media, I started noticing this phenomenon called Pitti Uomo: a bi-annual tradeshow where all my favourite guys were hanging out. I'd already explored London on my adventures discovering Savile Row tailors, shirtmakers, shoemakers and the like, to explore British craftsmanship and its tailoring heritage, so, I thought Italy would be the next place to conquer. Pitti in Florence, being a mecca for menswear enthusiasts, was then the no-brainer choice to be. It was here after several editions of the show, together with my standout style that I caught the attention of my tailor who wanted to work with me in a collaborative effort as brand ambassador - to show off and represent their work - it was a real dream come true moment. I'd already seen their work online, the most beautiful Neapolitan details under a Japanese twist: two cultures I truly admired for their approach to craftsmanship. I think the style really spoke to me because of the design forward approach Michele takes, everything had a speaking expressive quality from the roped shoulders down to the double-pick stitching. I fell in love.
LO: How do the fittings for the suits work given the distance between the pair of you? Have you visited M&S in Tokyo yourself?
SA: I've yet to have the pleasure, but Tokyo is definitely on the list 'considering it's a gem for all things vintage which I adore. We started off taking measurements in Florence in their apartment and continue the tradition of making adjustments each time, to be in the position we are in now, where we've both perfected the fit - after experimenting and trying different things. We've adjusted the pattern each time, so it's been a journey to explore what I like in terms of fit.
SA: When I got into the groove of menswear circles on social media, I started noticing this phenomenon called Pitti Uomo: a bi-annual tradeshow where all my favourite guys were hanging out. I'd already explored London on my adventures discovering Savile Row tailors, shirtmakers, shoemakers and the like, to explore British craftsmanship and its tailoring heritage, so, I thought Italy would be the next place to conquer. Pitti in Florence, being a mecca for menswear enthusiasts, was then the no-brainer choice to be. It was here after several editions of the show, together with my standout style that I caught the attention of my tailor who wanted to work with me in a collaborative effort as brand ambassador - to show off and represent their work - it was a real dream come true moment. I'd already seen their work online, the most beautiful Neapolitan details under a Japanese twist: two cultures I truly admired for their approach to craftsmanship. I think the style really spoke to me because of the design forward approach Michele takes, everything had a speaking expressive quality from the roped shoulders down to the double-pick stitching. I fell in love.
LO: How do the fittings for the suits work given the distance between the pair of you? Have you visited M&S in Tokyo yourself?
SA: I've yet to have the pleasure, but Tokyo is definitely on the list 'considering it's a gem for all things vintage which I adore. We started off taking measurements in Florence in their apartment and continue the tradition of making adjustments each time, to be in the position we are in now, where we've both perfected the fit - after experimenting and trying different things. We've adjusted the pattern each time, so it's been a journey to explore what I like in terms of fit.
LO: How do you go about briefing your tailor? Would you say it's predominantly your direction for the style you're after, or a combination of yours and the tailor's visions?
SA: It started off with Michele taking the complete lead. As an amateur of bespoke I was willing to let him take control and guide me through the process of measurements/fittings etc until we established a comfortable platform to develop from. I wanted to see his approach and what he recommended for me in terms of fabrics and designs. I felt like a model being designed for and Michele, well he has a fantastic eye and vision. Subsequently, I started getting more involved in selecting fabrics and now we design together. I send him mood boards, we pin ideas, a vibe/style we like and bring it to life. The designing for me is truly the fun part. I love this creative approach and Michele's open-mindedness to challenge himself to do new things. It's always so exciting what we do next, and the inspiration never stops.
LO: Your pink Pitti suit crafted from HFW cloth was quite theatrical in style. Talk us through your inspirations and how it turned out. I believe it was Tommy Nutter/Edward Sexton?
SA: Yes absolutely! We've done some classic suits in his house style before and recently my love for 1920-40s menswear inspired us to make some vintage-inspired suits, but I wanted to mix it up for this season. I'd done a few Neapolitan and very Italian summer suits before but I wanted to explore a different era, one which I always have distinct memories of during my times in London with all its associations: the classic 70/80s suit. The inspiration was the original Tommy Nutter suits and the subsequent tailors that derived from his style, Sexton and Chittleborough and Morgan. Wide lapels, a strong shoulder, wide ticket pockets, single button fastenings and sharp straight-leg trousers. All elements I studied and wanted to replicate the feel of. Michele lent his own twist and I was super happy with how it turned out, a great fusion and representation of both our minds in balance.
SA: It started off with Michele taking the complete lead. As an amateur of bespoke I was willing to let him take control and guide me through the process of measurements/fittings etc until we established a comfortable platform to develop from. I wanted to see his approach and what he recommended for me in terms of fabrics and designs. I felt like a model being designed for and Michele, well he has a fantastic eye and vision. Subsequently, I started getting more involved in selecting fabrics and now we design together. I send him mood boards, we pin ideas, a vibe/style we like and bring it to life. The designing for me is truly the fun part. I love this creative approach and Michele's open-mindedness to challenge himself to do new things. It's always so exciting what we do next, and the inspiration never stops.
LO: Your pink Pitti suit crafted from HFW cloth was quite theatrical in style. Talk us through your inspirations and how it turned out. I believe it was Tommy Nutter/Edward Sexton?
SA: Yes absolutely! We've done some classic suits in his house style before and recently my love for 1920-40s menswear inspired us to make some vintage-inspired suits, but I wanted to mix it up for this season. I'd done a few Neapolitan and very Italian summer suits before but I wanted to explore a different era, one which I always have distinct memories of during my times in London with all its associations: the classic 70/80s suit. The inspiration was the original Tommy Nutter suits and the subsequent tailors that derived from his style, Sexton and Chittleborough and Morgan. Wide lapels, a strong shoulder, wide ticket pockets, single button fastenings and sharp straight-leg trousers. All elements I studied and wanted to replicate the feel of. Michele lent his own twist and I was super happy with how it turned out, a great fusion and representation of both our minds in balance.
LO: How did you decide upon the cloth you chose? You went for the 264421 Italian textured jacketing in wool/silk…
SA: Absolutely! I wanted something a little more playful and colourful, something that would work for a cocktail event or party situation, hence the pink. Plus I didn't have anything like it already in my wardrobe. The composition I chose, which I thought would be a great weight for summer evenings, and that silk just gives it a super smooth and luxurious hand feel. I knew the blend would drape well and emphasise the details of Michele's handwork.
LO: How do you go about accessorising the suit? What are your go-to accessories? And tell us a bit more about the red and white silk tie?
SA: I tried to keep things simple as the suit was already super bold and standout so a monochromatic approach with the shirt and matching vintage 2-tone brogues from Joseph Cheaney ensued. I wanted to include the tinted sunglasses for that hint of 70s summer Miami Vice: a matching pink shade I had custom-made from a local optician using Japanese frames. The tie was a vintage 1940s piece I found on eBay last year. Full silk and I thought the red and pinks would go well together and the texture of the fabric wouldn't bulk up the front. It was shipped from the States and is a piece I really love to wear to give a real vintage feel.
LO: What makes Florence so special to you?
SA: Florence, for me, is a truly magical place. Its streets are just so charming and full of immense amounts of historical interest. As an art lover there's not a corner that isn't going to stop you and leave you gazing in admiration. A city full of paintings, sculpture and impressive architecture. Not just that but the crazy array of foods to try, the friendly locals. The cherry on the top is Pitti itself, coming here over the years, connecting with the community, feeling the friendships which have developed over the years and reuniting together for all things tailoring talk. Florence has special significance to me because it's where I let myself go, explore, be curious and it's a place I learnt so much about myself and how I've evolved, not just in style, but as a person. It's a place that always reminds me of who I am and where I came from, embarking on this passion that's menswear, a journey which I'm so glad Huddersfield Fine Worsteds could be a part of.
Follow Shaban's sartorial journey here @_shaban.ali_; @michele&shin
SA: Absolutely! I wanted something a little more playful and colourful, something that would work for a cocktail event or party situation, hence the pink. Plus I didn't have anything like it already in my wardrobe. The composition I chose, which I thought would be a great weight for summer evenings, and that silk just gives it a super smooth and luxurious hand feel. I knew the blend would drape well and emphasise the details of Michele's handwork.
LO: How do you go about accessorising the suit? What are your go-to accessories? And tell us a bit more about the red and white silk tie?
SA: I tried to keep things simple as the suit was already super bold and standout so a monochromatic approach with the shirt and matching vintage 2-tone brogues from Joseph Cheaney ensued. I wanted to include the tinted sunglasses for that hint of 70s summer Miami Vice: a matching pink shade I had custom-made from a local optician using Japanese frames. The tie was a vintage 1940s piece I found on eBay last year. Full silk and I thought the red and pinks would go well together and the texture of the fabric wouldn't bulk up the front. It was shipped from the States and is a piece I really love to wear to give a real vintage feel.
LO: What makes Florence so special to you?
SA: Florence, for me, is a truly magical place. Its streets are just so charming and full of immense amounts of historical interest. As an art lover there's not a corner that isn't going to stop you and leave you gazing in admiration. A city full of paintings, sculpture and impressive architecture. Not just that but the crazy array of foods to try, the friendly locals. The cherry on the top is Pitti itself, coming here over the years, connecting with the community, feeling the friendships which have developed over the years and reuniting together for all things tailoring talk. Florence has special significance to me because it's where I let myself go, explore, be curious and it's a place I learnt so much about myself and how I've evolved, not just in style, but as a person. It's a place that always reminds me of who I am and where I came from, embarking on this passion that's menswear, a journey which I'm so glad Huddersfield Fine Worsteds could be a part of.
Follow Shaban's sartorial journey here @_shaban.ali_; @michele&shin
