Woven on 1936 Dobcross Looms which, until recently, were used at Ramsdens of Crossland Moor, Huddersfield. HFW’s pattern weavers, in a quest to revisit its fabled heritage, have re-commissioned the looms to weave on 8 shafts, cutting the loom cards to facilitate the incorporation of the company’s Fresco & Super Gabardine name edges.

Dobcross Looms were patented by James Hollingworth and manufactured originally by Hutchinson, Hollingworth and Co. Ltd. Established in 1860 as Hutchinson and Hollingworth by Messrs. John Hutchinson (c.1816-1888) of Cawthorne and James Hollingworth (c.1834-1895) of Holmfirth, headquartered at Dobcross Loom Works in Oldham, half an hour’s drive from Huddersfield. The premises closed in 1967 and was taken over shortly afterwards by pallet manufacturers W. H. Shaw. It ceased existence in 2006 after falling into administration.

When the machinery was first introduced it was highly sought-after, as it sped up the weaving process considerably, running at speeds of 108 picks per minute, which at the time was a huge improvement on previous models.

We’re really delighted to have the opportunity to showcase the skills of our pattern weavers and produce some of our heritage cloths on the original shuttle looms

The shuttle woven fabrics, currently being produced in the West Yorkshire town, will be available upon request and will lend an extra air of history and exclusivity to the existing portfolio of famous cloths. Speaking at its launch, HFW Managing Director Iain Milligan said “We’re really delighted to have the opportunity to showcase the skills of our pattern weavers and produce some of our heritage cloths on the original shuttle looms”

Words & photography: Lee Osborne @sartorialee